Spotting The Cheap: Part 2
We discussed some of the major flaws with a cheap suit in Part 1, but what about the simpler details that weigh it down as well? These can actually be easier to spot than the major flaws on most occasions. Manufactures are always trying to cut corners to cut the cost, welcome to how the world works. But, as long as you understand it, you can make an informed decision.
In reference to Part 1- A suit could be incredibly expensive, but unfortunately the guy that was working with you at the shop didn't know very much about mens fashion...and so your expensive suit fits like terrible- throwing the untrained eye off to thinking it's a cheap one. If you aren't sure, always ask for a second opinion from someone who doesn't work at the store (we are trained to stick together).
So what about these smaller details that allow you to see "cheap?"
Bad buttons look flimsy, maybe even painted and typically break easy. You can feel it easier than you can see it, but the cheapness stands out. The good thing, buttons are easily replaceable. If you want to upgrade them, go buy some nice ones and have a seamstress sew them on for $25.
2. Button Anchors
This is very cheap- if you see this...be aware mass production and quality are severely hurting. This is a plastic button on the backside of the jacket front. There shouldn't be anything there, but cheap garments have this so the buttons won't fall off- because- they aren't sewing them on well enough to not use one.
This goes for any garment- if you don't have YKK, you don't have...well, you know the rest. Somehow YKK has a monopoly on zippers worldwide, and are the only ones who produce a top quality zipper. If you don't have one, it will clearly tell you the brand saved money on the zippers.
4. Synthetic Fibers
You want your suits to typically be 100% wool. Of course having some cashmere and silk is fine. The two most popularly used synthetic fibers are polyester and radon- try and stay away from these.
5. Fusing bubbles
Fusing and canvasing are the two types of ways suits are produced. Either is fine, but canvasing it better. Fusing gets a bad wrap because so many companies do it the worst possible way, and it looks terrible. If your jacket has fusing bubbles and its fairly new...it clearly was a bad job.
Your perfect buttonhole is actually not perfect. Weird right? Well, if all the buttonholes look identical, they were done by machine. If, they are off ever so slightly then they were hand done- showing time was invested in making the suit.
7. No Extra Fabric
If the bottom of the pant has no extra fabric inside the opening...serious money pinchers.
You will be able to feel this pretty easy, especially if you can compare two linings next to each others. The cheap one is very thin, usually polyester and sometimes pretty "swishy."
9. Inside Detailing
Look for the intricate details on the inside, or lack thereof.
Between Part 1 and Part 2, you should have a decent understanding about how to spot a cheap suit. Remember, not every cheap suit will have every quality on here, but they will have the majority.
Start playing a game with yourself and people watch trying to guess if the suit is expensive or cheap- if you have the guts, go ask the guy and see if you were right. Otherwise, next time you are in a suit shop- take a look around and see if you can spot the bad ones.